It starts with the kitchen. Earthen cook stove, polished finish, plenty of stove tops. No chimney, eek! High ceilings, phew. Do look up and left — this is not a wonky photo, those are wonky walls. Apparently it is common in “machiya” (Kyoto’s preferred model of home) for the walls above the kitchen to be plastered less fervently than the rest of the house, to cut costs. Hence, the wonk. I will have to keep my eyes open, this is the first I’m noticing it.